Diary Wednesday 28th August 2002
Maidstone
UK - Luxor Egypt
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aving spent the last two weeks sorting out what to take, in case
of Deli belly, sun stroke, mosquito bite or maybe crocodile bite it is a relief
to be sitting here in my cabin on the cruise boat Crown Princess moored
alongside the Winter Palace Hotel on the river Nile at Luxor.
It was 0530 when the alarm went off that morning back in the UK and
it did not take much effort to spring out of bed. At 0630 on the dot our taxi
arrived and four under 20kg cases were loaded on. Our friendly smart black
suited lady taxi driver told us how to adjust the air conditioning in the
spacious luxury people carrier and chatted about where we were off to. It took
75min to reach Gatwick due to M25 traffic but the journey becomes part of the
adventure particularly when I’m not driving.
Check in was smooth until Alex told me he had some nail scissors
in his pocket, we disposed of these and went on through passport control.
Breakfast was high on our agenda and bacon Mcmuffin with brown sauce and hash
browns followed by coffee gave us the energy to face the duty free shops. Our
only purchase was an alarm clock with a temperature gauge that I thought would
be useful.
Whilst whiling away the time waiting for the flight Alex and I
played people watching games. The first is simply, guess whom any person is,
where they are from and what they are doing here, the second is more fun; make
up an outrageous conversation between any two or more people you see that are
talking to each other. This can be great fun but do avoid making eye contact
with the people concerned as you can get into serious trouble.
Departure was on time, 1045 BST and straightforward. I am 6’4”
and well built; when I booked my holiday I asked for extra legroom seats but
was told that they were all taken. Is it any wonder that people complain about
the seating and risks of DVT when we have no choice but to sit in conditions
that I would not subject my pets to, and airline food – sausage and mash!
Our pilot Tim kept us up to date with our position and the
temperatures in Egypt and London, the plane descended over North Africa we
could see the Sahara desert, which looked much darker than I had seen in
pictures. We followed the Nile into Luxor observing the narrow fertile belt on
either side and landed at the military controlled airport. Its 6pm local time
and as you walk off of the plane to the awaiting buses the dry heat does hit
you. The airport is under reconstruction and immigration control is therefore
in a large air-conditioned tent, I guess in Egypt it won’t be swept away by the
rain! The process of stern looking uniformed officials checking your details,
stamping your documents and passing you from one to the other as they sit in
their kiosks surrounded by glass with armed guards does make you realise that
you are in a different country. Wow was I glad I had made the trip to London to
get visas when I saw the scrum to get them in arrivals at the airport.
Because the airport is under military control Thompson reps are
not permitted in the buildings but other guides do direct you to your luggage
and exits. Be aware everybody wants your money in Egypt and any advice or
service will cost you, at the airport because you are new to the country you
will be ripped off. So my advice is simple don’t use a trolley, don’t let
anybody touch your luggage handle it yourself, put it on the awaiting coach and
make sure you have some 1, 5 and 10 Egyptian pound notes if you do get in to
tipping.
The Thompson coaches are all air-conditioned and it is a relief
to get in them away from the heat outside. Once all on the coach we were
welcomed by the rep and given some information to read. The coach would call at
several hotels dropping people off before arriving the boats. This would take
about 45min, we were warned about the sites we would see and the problems with
the road and sewer system in Luxor this would be very different to the UK.
We were not disappointed as we left the airport we passed carts
pulled by donkeys full of reeds and workers in the fields with basic housing
dotted around. Once in town we passed Karnak and our first sight of a real temple,
on towards the Hilton hotel and roadworks. Imagine a narrow street with no
surface, cars, vans, busses, lorries, carts and bikes trying to go in both
directions at once. Three people on a bike zigzagging in and out of the
potholes, local housing on either side of the road, people sitting and watching
the chaos everyone hooting their horns not busy in our terms but…. chaos to the
uninitiated eye!
Our coach pulled up on the Corniche opposite the Winter Palace
Hotel, we stepped out to the evening chorus of bird song. I couldn’t believe
it, on my left the famous hotel on my right the Nile, across the river the
mountains and valley of the kings and in between our boat The Crown Princess
and to top it all the sun was setting behind it – story book stuff! We were
welcomed on board with a drink, registered at the hotel style reception; our
bags were taken to our cabins. A Thompson welcome meeting in the bar had been
arranged for 8pm. The cabins have individually controlled air-conditioned and
are spacious with superb picture windows, bathroom shower and coffee table with
chairs. Its 7.35pm so a quick freshen up, change of clothes and off to the
meeting.
David our Thompson rep that would stay with us for the week on
the boat introduced our guide Tamma, they were both characters so I guess we
are in for a good week. The slide projector showing us the places we would be
visiting and optional extra excursions just about worked and the pictures were
very old. We were given all the useful tips don’t drive, don’t drink the water,
be careful with what you eat, don’t ride horses or camels you are not insured.
Drink lots of bottled water, the locals are very friendly, barter for
everything; armed police will escort you on all trips, armed tourist police are
everywhere, tipping on the boat is at the end of the trip.
Dinner followed and was served in the restaurant, which is at
the bottom of the boat, sounds worrying but this beautiful boat has an
excellent restaurant with super views at water level. We were greeted at the
door with a glass of fresh lemon and escorted to our table. You keep the same
table throughout the trip so get a good seat right from the start! All meals
are A la carte’ so we followed everybody else to check out what was on offer.
It takes a couple of days to try everything and decide what you like best but
needless to say the food and service were very good and lots of it!
Over dinner we discussed the day so far, our desire to explore the boat to the full and decided to take every optional tour going to make the most of the holiday, this would be expensive but we had budgeted for it. Besides from what we had already seen of the country we did not think we would be wandering around too much on our own. This would shock the more experienced and adventurous traveller but on this occasion we would be conservative and play it safe in this post September 11th world.
After dinner we checked out the boat, bottom of the boat, crew’s
quarters, kitchen, engine room, dining room, small shop, few cabins and a
central staircase. First deck large reception and cabins, second deck large
lounge bar, cabins and fitness suit, upper deck swimming pool, sun deck and
bar. I would recommend this boat it was of a high standard, our cabin was on
the second deck away from the engines and with great views.
On deck the sun had now set but a hot breeze of 26ºC came across the Nile, pinch me this is not real! Back in our
rooms a quick unpack and to bed, by the time I had written my journal it was
midnight and we have an early start in the morning.